Azzedine Alaia is in a league of his own in the fashion industry. His collections are secret, he doesn’t present during fashion week and he is also the only designer to have sent Anna Wintour packing…
Since he breaks with the established rules and doesn’t like constraint; it was obvious that we wouldn’t respect the ban on pictures at the exposition that recounts his artwork at the Galliera museum.
Frankly, what a pitty to have to contact the press service and ask for an official photo of the exposition at the Galliera museum. That is absolutely not an Alaia attitude. Here’s why:
Because like him we are in a perpetual quest for the invisible: Look at his dresses and tell me if you see a stitch?
Because like him we do not like constraints: No matter the era, each of his creations are free of any artifice or ornament and, regardless of the body, the cuts will correct and flatter the silhouette.
Because there is always an exception to the rule: like Tina Turner’s dress that was covered in golden metallic pearls sowed onto every inch of fabric.
Because we cannot be indifferent to virtuosity: there is humor and elegance in this swallowtail completely made out of crocodile.
Because he dresses us with historicism: the perforated leather belts remember the XIXth century corsets that Nana*, Emile Zola’s courtesan, wore with enthusiasm to drive the highest dignitaries of the Second Empire crazy.
Because he never bores us with a reconstruction: he gives us, many times over, his version of the shirts, the froufrous, and the engageantes inspired by the closets of the courtesans that he is so passionate about.
Because we love contradictions: in his dresses we are held tightly but remain free. A new definition of femininity.
Because even though his little dresses are so very Parisian, he will never be one of many designers: he has hugged the curves of women as different as Arletty, Farida Kelfa, Grace Jones, What else?
* Nana is a novel written by Émile Zola which talks about the theme of feminine prostitution through the journey of a courtesan who’s charms drove the highest dignitaries of the Second Empire crazy. The story starts in 1868. The character of Nana was inspired by Blanche D’Antigny.
* engageantes : One to three flounces of lace or gauze tied to the sleeves of the shirt (or blouse ?).PALAIS GALLIERA EXPOSITION ALAIA MUSÉE DE LA MODE DE LA VILLE DE PARIS Du 28 septembre 2013 au 26 janvier 2014 www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr